Area 1 – Itinerary 5

The goddess and the snake: a historical and archeological walk through the hamlet of Lanuvio

  1. Civic Museum Lanuvino (museum I)

  2. Giunone Sospita Shrine (place of interest I)

  3. Pantanacci archeological site (place of interest II)

  4. Diffused Museum Lanuvino (Pantanacci materials, Licinio Murena’s equestrian donary and Medieval Tower – place of interest III)

If ancient and medieval archeology are the focus of our traveler, then this urban itinerary through the town of Lanuvio is the place for them. According to the myths, the ancient town of Lanuvium was founded around the XII century b.C. with theories on its birth being based on two different figures: a Greek-Argonaut theory that attributes it to Diomede, son of Tideo and another that sees the Trojan Fabio Pittore, who landed in Italy after the Trojan War, as the protagonist.

Lanuvio was well known in ancient times for the presence of a big Shrine built in the first half of the VII century b.C. dedicated to Giunone Sospita; the shrine was regarded as the most famous in the region for the worship of the goddess. The shrine’s archeological site can be found in Villa Sforza Cesarini park – an interesting Liberty style villa from the first half of the XX century now home of the Municipal Library – and is the reason for the presence of three cylindrical blocks made out of peperino which present scale incisions, most likely linked to the cult of the snake, widespread in ancient times and worshiped by the people of Lanuvium as mentioned by Eliano and Properzio. This cult included a ritual celebrated during Spring, where a group of young blindfolded virgins would offer flat bread to a giant snake that lived in a cave in order to insure its blessing for fertile soil: according to this hypothesis, the not so distant Pantanacci archeological site – currently found between the towns of Lanuvio and Genzano di Roma – is none other than the famous cave where the sacred snake resided. In support of this theory is the fact that hundreds of ex voto were found in the Pantanacci cave as an offer to the cave deity from its believers: they range from crockery to anatomical votive offerings, among which a previously unknown type of oral cavity, unique in the national landscape and displayed in the dedicated room at the Museo Diffuso, definitely stands out.

In the afternoon, our traveler can explore the streets of Lanuvio’s medieval hamlet, to discover the aforementioned Museum Diffuso. The end of the old Lanuvium was marked by the decree of Tessalonica (380 b.C.) which declared Christianity as the Empire’s official religion, thus prohibiting the worship of pagan deities and shutting down their temples, including the one dedicated to Giunone Sospita. This is how we move onto the medieval history of Civita Lavinia, founded mid-X century a.C. by Benedictine monks, who built five towers, all still standing in their entirety. Among these towers stands out the picturesque Torre Maschia, part of the city walls in Via della Libertà and made up of a thick cylindrical body with an external crenelated walkway. Also known as the Tower of Porta Romana, it’s adorned with the emblem of Pope Vittore III, who was probably responsible for rebuilding the town. The tower belonged to the heirs of Collonna of Palestrina until the XV century; it was then passed onto the Cesarini family and it was used as a prison in the XVII century. Today, visitors can see the narrow prison cell and, right under it,  the remains of a roman water tank that’s missing the traditional coverage in cocciopesto (lime mortar with crushed pottery/bricks) and which appears because of it, all the more evocative.

Barely 100mt from the medieval tower, our archeo-traveler’s path inside Lanuvio continues in Via Sforza Cesarini, with the spectacular Fontana Degli Scogli (fountain of the rocks). Erected in 1675 by the Architect Carlo Fontana and commissioned by Filippo Cesarini, it is thought to be a homage to Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi in Navona Square in Rome. Initially, the fountain was adorned with two giant snakes on both sides of the cliff, linking it back to the worship of Giunone Sospita, and thus making the history of Lanuvio come full circle for our tourists. Our traveler’s day comes to an end near the dungeon of Palazzo Colonna where they will find, in the so-called Cantinone, “1884-1892. The excavation of Lord Savile Linley at the Giunone Sospita shrine”, an exhibition dedicated to the precious sculptures of Licino Murena’s donary, discovered at the end of the 1800’s by the British ambassador Lord Lumley, and now back where they were first found after 130 years. It’s an impressive marble sculptural group depicting horsemen and warriors, carved in the I century b.C. at the behest of Licinio Murena, to celebrate the victory against Mitritade VI, king of the Ponto.

Recommendations and fun facts

  • You can’t visit Lanuvio without trying “maza”, a salted flat bread connected to the ancient cult of the Snake of Giunone Sospita: on sanctioned days, sanctified virgins crossed the woods with their eyes covered, carrying flat bread to offer the snake. According to tradition, the snake would only accept the offerings if the young women were truly virgins.

Contacts and opening hours

Civic Museum Lanuvino

Lanuvio (RM), Piazza della Maddalena 16
Info: +390693789237 | cultura@comune.lanuvio.rm.it | https://www.museumgrandtour.com/portfolio-item/museo-civico-lanuvio/
Opening hours: mon-tue-thu 10:00-13:00 | wed-fri-sat-sun 10:00-13:00/15:00-18:00

Giunone Sospita Shrine

Lanuvio (RM), Villa Sforza Cesarini Park
Info: www.comune.lanuvio.rm.it
Opening hours: always open to the public

Porta Romana Tower

Lanuvio (RM), Via della Libertà 1
Info: cultura@comune.lanuvio.rm.it
Opening hours: can be visited upon reservation

Fountain “degli Scogli” (of the Rocks)

Lanuvio (RM), Via Sforza Cesarini 4
Info: cultura@comune.lanuvio.rm.it
Opening hours: always open to the public

Diffused Museum Lanuvino

Lanuvio (RM), meeting point in Carlo Fontana Square
Info: 390693789237| luca.attenni@comune.lanuvio.rm.it | www.comune.lanuvio.rm.it
Opening hours: Tuesdays – Sundays 10:00 – 13:00/15:00 – 18:00