Area 2 – Itinerary 6
The history of a noble family: commissions of the Colonna family between Cave and Genazzano
-
Cave historical town center (place of interest I – Cave)
-
Civic Museum of the City of Cave, Lorenzo Ferri section (museum I – Cave)
-
Atelier Museum Castello Colonna (museum II – Genazzano)
-
Madre del Buon Consiglio Sanctuary (place of interest II – Genazzano)
If our traveler is passionate about stories involving noble families, then the itinerary that ties Cave and Genazzano through the history and settlements of the Colonna clan should be right up their alley. The Colonna were an old roman family whose origin dates to nine centuries ago: the first documented member was Pietro, who lived between 1078 and 1108 in the south-Roman countryside, in the town of Colonna which gave the family its name. Since then, well over thirty-one generations have followed, with the main branch settling in Rome at the start of 1200, on the slopes of the Quirinale. Amongst its heirs, Odoardo Colonna benefitted, along with his brothers Antonio and Prospero, from the nepotistic policies of pope Oddone Colonna of Genazzano, Martino V, who in 1425 granted his three nephews a permanent feud in the Prenestini Mountains territory. On June 1st 1427, the pope decided to split the family’s assets thus giving Cave, Genazzano and several other villages, to the Colonna brothers. Our traveler’s journey begins in Cave and its medieval hamlet littered with churches connected to the Colonna family: in the X century, at a distance of approximately a mile to reach Praeneste from the old town of Castrum Trebarum, where the pozzolana and tuff mines were located, a new residential area called “Cavarum Terra” (origin of its current name) was starting to grow. Around that same time, a seal from the Bishop of Palestrina, Stefano II, certified that the bishop, with the favour of Pietro Colonna, recognized the Church of San Lorenzo Martire and transformed its appearance, gifting it with a new facade e two small aisles which turned the parish into a small roman cathedral with frescoes. A historically relevant date for Cave was 1462, when Odoardo Colonna decided to write in his will that he would be buried in the Church of Santo Stefano inside the Augustinian monastery, erected in 1428 at the behest of pope Martino V. In 1768, after a growth in population size, the architect Nicola Fagiolo, pupil of Vanvitelli, was commissioned with building a new upper church, visible from the lower church through a porthole on the ceiling of the latter. The San Carlo Borromeo monastery and Church were erected back in 1567 in a place called “la villa” because of the presence of an ancient roman villa, at the behest of the wealthy Biscia di Cave family. A commission from Lombardia, just like the one of Filippo I Colonna who, son of Anna Borromeo and thus nephew of San Carlo, ended up dedicating the church and monastery to the Milanese patron saint. In a perfect journey in time towards the future, our traveler will find a link between the religious environment and local artistic culture in the figure of Lorenzo Ferri (1902-1975): sculptor, painter, restorer and sindonologist, he frequented the roman clerical spaces because of his studies on the Holy Shroud where he struck up a friendship with Monsignor Lorenzo Castellani, vicar of Cave, who introduced the artist to the small town. His first project for the town was a painting of the Veronica depicting Jesus’ face crowned with thorns, made for the “Comitato Pro-Venerdì Santo” (of which Monsignor Castellani was the director) and now displayed in the church of Santa Maria Assunta. Later on he created two more pieces as a testament to his emotional connection to Cave: a bronze door for the Church of Saint Maria Assunta and the Shrouded Crucifix, displayed in the San Bartolomeo district. Lorenzo Ferri is who the artistic section of the Civic Museum, in the former Mattei Hospital (last stop in our traveler’s journey through the city of Cave), is dedicated to and named after. The museum’s exhibition is divided in three sections that retrace the most important stages of the artist’s life: the first room hosts a plaster cast gallery of original pieces in plaster, highly representative of the different phases in his career. The hypogeal rooms of Palazzo Comunale, former home of the Augustinian monastery, hold the sindonic section and the Monumental Nativity instead.
Our traveler can now move onto Genazzano, making a first stop at the Castello Colonna, on an imaginary trip that follows the family’s steps: located on a tuff spur, it offers an amazing view on the immense landscape that extends from the Valley of Sacco to the eastern mountains. The story of the Castle, as evidenced by its name, is tied to the Colonna family who, from the XI century, took a simple defensive stronghold and turned it into a manor of great artistic and architectural worth. It’s in 1639 that cardinal Girolamo Colonna commissions the internal frescoes: among these frescoes, the ones displayed in the chapel situated on the first floor’s eastern wing are particularly worthy of note, depicting glimpses of landscapes as they appeared back in the day, together with sacred scenes.
The artistic history of the Castello Colonna comes back to life in present day in 1979, when, after being bought by the town, it was renovated and turned into a focal point for theater initiatives and contemporary art: with the most notable being Le Stanze (1979), first artistic event curated by the critic Achille Bonito Oliva, attended by some of the biggest representatives of the Transavantgarde movement. At present, Castello Colonna is home to the Atelier Museum Castello Colonna, which contains five different sections: Quadreria (art gallery), Museum of the Infiorata, the Museum of Arts and Popular Traditions, Archeological Museum and the Living Museum. Only a few minute’s walk away from Castello Colonna, our “grand tourist” will run into the Sanctuary of the Madre del Buon Consiglio, another commission by the Colonnas: already existing as an old church dedicated to Virgin Mary from the XI century, the church was entrusted in 1356 to Augustinian friars who lived in a small monastery outside the city walls. The small church was originally rebuilt in 1476 at the behest of the augustinian tertiary Petruccia di lenci and it’s around this time that it became the destination of pilgrimage, as, according to tradition, a painting depicting the Madonna with Baby Jesus miraculously came off the wall of the Saint Stefano Cathedral in Scutari, Albania, during a siege by the Ottoman Turks, to now reside in the sanctuary in Genazzano. The only part remaining from the original church is the white marble carved gate, with its gate depicting the Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus being carried over the clouds by angels. The current sanctuary was built, without touching the Madonna chapel, from 1621nto 1629, at the interest of father Felice Leoncelli and carried out by architect Domenico D’ottavio of Anticoli, who combined the original church and the one of the Beata Petruccia.
This concludes our traveler’s itinerary in the footsteps of the Colonna family, giving a nod to the future by visiting Cave Liberty and one to the past by making a stop at the Ninfeo bramantesco in Genazzano.
Recommendations and fun facts
- When one visits Cave and its old town center, they can’t miss the chance to take a walk through its Villini Liberty. The historical moment that coincided with the biggest growth of the contemporary town as a residential vacation spot was, in fact, the decade of 1900 when “villeggiatura” meant “staying in villa”, aka staying in the countryside or outside the city.
- Not too distant from the center of town Genazzano stuns with a view of modern ruins: it’s the remains of the Ninfeo di Bramante, an architectural complex from the beginning of the XVI century, attributed from the Frommel to the great renaissance architect Donato Bramante probably on commission by cardinal Pompeo Colonna. The splendor and grandeur of this majestic work that combines the echo of roman classicism with the ambition of renaissance classicism is designed to create an evocative and magical place, set on the shore of a remote river and surrounded by greenery, where tourists can integrate with nature, recalling Arcadian impressions of the past.
Contacts and opening hours
Cave historical town center
Cave (RM), Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, 6
Info: 06.9500081 | segreteria@comune.cave.rm.it
Opening hours: always open
Civic Museum of the City of Cave
Cave (RM), Via Cavour 23
Info: www.museolorenzoferricave.eu
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 9:00 – 19:00 / Sat-Sun 10:30 – 12:30 | 16:30 – 19:30
Atelier Musem Castello Colonna and Quadreria (art gallery)
Genazzano (RM), Piazza San Nicola 4
Info: +393283071930 | museo.quadreria@genazzano.org |
Opening hours: Fridays-Saturdays-Sundays 10:00–12;00 / 15:00-18:00
Madre del Buon Consiglio Sanctuary
Genazzano (RM), Corso Cardinali Vannutelli 2
Info: 06 957 9002 | info@madredelbuonconsiglio.it | www.madredelbuonconsiglio.it